Jeep Parts > Skid Plates & Armor > 33 Engineering Hi-Clearance Skid Plate

33 Engineering Hi-Clearance Skid Plate

Brand: 33 Engineering
Features: * Adds 3 inches of clearance with minimal impact on center of gravity * Made of 3/16" cold rolled steel * Two-piece design for easy transmission access/maintenance * Powder coated * Requires a body lift or t-case drop for proper installation

Owner Reviews

33 Engineering Hi-Clearance Skid Plate

Avg. Customer Rating: (7.6 Stars)

Number of Reviews: 5 reviews

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33 Engineering Hi-Clearance Skid Plate - Reviews

	A simple idea, well executed
	Date: Nov 03, 2009
	Reviewer: A JeepReviews.com User from (Cincinnati, OH)
	I have absolutely loved this mod (been running it for the last 3-4+ years). With just a 3" suspension lift + 33's I have a very nice break over angle and clearance in the middle of the Jeep without a taller (and far more expensive) suspension lift. It also has a nice shape to slide your easier over the rocks and it works very well (as it it was designed to work) in harmony with the Skid Row's oil skid. I went with the alumn. skid to save weight and although it now has some 'rock rash', there has been no deformation of the skid and of course aluminum doesn't rust. There is the standard Mid-West/East-Coast wheeling rust on the mounting frame. I also think the 3/16" hardened aluminum is skid is actually stouter than their steel skid. I have a 02 TJ and this does NOT get the Tranny bracket. They sent me one to try as he wasn't sure if it would help. It didn't and I just shipped it back. When you have it installed tight to frame for maximum clearance, you will need the 1" body lift and 1" motor mounts otherwise the top of your transmission will hit the underside of your body. You will either need to purchase a 4WD Hi/Low shifter linkage bracket which will mount the linkage to the transmission instead of the body. You can also fabricate yourself a longer linkage bracket (which is what I did) to move the linkage slightly so it doesn't bind - simple fabrication skills are all that are necessary. I also had to modify the exhaust hanging pin with a little heat, cutting and some bending to make it all fit. You also need a SYE, double-cardan drive shaft and some adjustable control arms (uppers and/or lowers) for the rear if you don't already have them. This modification further exacerbates the drive shaft angle and will bring on the vibes. When you are complete with your install you will need to adjust your rear pinion angle, especially if you installed the skid tight to the frame for maximum clearance. My only beef with the system is that the counter sunk holes for the stainless steel screw\bolts were slightly misaligned and I couldn't get one side to fully install flush with the underside of the skid. Had to use the trusty Dremel tool to enlarge the countersunk edge. Although it doesn't look as good as the factory holes, then at least work now. Your biggest problem will be finding one of these skids. 33 Engineering and its on-line store Off Road Toy Store have gone out of business this year (2009 - probably like so many other business due to this crummy economy). With luck, when we get to the other side of this recession, they will restart their business and offer this system again. There are other "tummy tucker" skids out there but I don't know of any that support the transmission independent of the skid plate which is one of the nicer features of this skid, especially for those of us who work under our jeeps and can use the extra access afforded by not having the skid plate installed.

	This review is the subjective opinion of a JeepReviews user and not of JeepReviews.com.

	Doesn't hold up well
	Date: Mar 04, 2009
	Reviewer: A JeepReviews.com User from (Spotsylvania, VA)
	The skid is made from too light a gauge metal. Mine is bent all to hell. I had to remove it and weld renforcements in it, and it still bends to easly.

	This review is the subjective opinion of a JeepReviews user and not of JeepReviews.com.

	WOW what a great idea!
	Date: Dec 20, 2007
	Reviewer: A JeepReviews.com User from (Freehold, NJ)
	Well 33 Engineering has done its homework. The belly up skid with a cross bar that holds all the vitals up when you take down your skid is genius. All skids should be like this. I even take off my skid plate between off road events and drive with just the subframe crossmember, No more jacks holding up my tranny when doing service. Make sure you purchase thier high clearance trans mount at the same time! I own a 2005 TJ and had very few clearance problems. I also insalled a MORE 1" motor mount kit and a JKS 1/25" body lift and a SYE with Tom Woods shaft. All worked in harmony. Remember when you change one thing it effects 4 others, LOL It's a jeep thing you should understand. Thanks 33 Engineering

	This review is the subjective opinion of a JeepReviews user and not of JeepReviews.com.

	This Skid Plate is everything they say it is.
	Date: Dec 12, 2007
	Reviewer: A JeepReviews.com User from (Maple Valley, WA)
	This is a real easy Skid plate to add to your tj. I installed it on an 05 Unlimited Rubicon. I took before and after measurements and found it lifted the lowest point of ground clearance 2.75". Everything went great untill I test drove it. As soon as I got on the excelerator there was a roar that sounded like it had grinding gears mixed in. I noticed the exhaust contacting the right lower control arm and remembered someone else had mentioned that problem. I heated it up with a torch and had no luck bending it away. I then took it to a Muffler shop and had them put a bend in the pipe to miss the arm, upsize the pipe a little and change my muffler to a Magnaflow. That didn't do the trick. The Muffler has a dull roar of it's own I'm having trouble getting used to. Next I took it to "TJ's Offroad" in Kent Wa. They told me that when I get on the gas the Transfer case would move up contacting the floor and that by lowering the skip 3/4" It would take care of the problem. They aslo said that the Rubicon has a larger Case and the other Tj's wouldn't have the same problem. In all fairness to 33 Engineering I had called thier help line and they didn't say anything about the T-Case moving but did say to lower the case. I should have listened. It would have saved me $500. on the muffler pipe job. Now everything works great. I've had the chance to go over the same trails I've scraped bottom on with no contact whatsoever. I'm real happy with it and it was worth all the trouble. I hope this will help the next Rubicon owner with their install.

	This review is the subjective opinion of a JeepReviews user and not of JeepReviews.com.

	33 Engineering Transfer Case Skid/Manual Trans mount 05 Rubi
	Date: Sep 24, 2005
	Reviewer: A JeepReviews.com User from (San Diego, CA)
	The short version is that it all works great. Over all I'm really impressed with the quality of the skid/tranny mount, and the design. The problems were really minor: Tranny mount bolts were about 1/4" too long. Fixed with hacksaw. Locker pump bolts designed to be countersunk, but plate not drilled that way. Fixed with 1/2" drill bit. That's really it for problems... Not bad for the first batch. The setup required the following... (with what is now a 2-3/4" suspension lift) 33 Engineering Tcase Skid 33 Engineering High clearance transmission mount 1" Body Lift 1" Motor Mount Lift (Not REQUIRED but I feel it's the right way to do a BL) CV Driveshaft (Currie flange type, Required if you have more that 1" of suspension lift) Adjustable Upper Rear control arms Skyjacker transfer case shifter bracket (shifting is nearly impossible without it) RE Track bar relocation bracket, The angled one for CV Driveshafts TeraFlex Shock Relocation Brackets So... While the skid/Tranny mount are only $500 shipped, I spent around $900 on other stuff to make it happen. Sure, I'd have wanted the other stuff anyway... Worth the $1400? Yup! Glad I did it. I'd like to do a locker relocation to complement it. Looking back, It would have been much easier with better upper control arms. I personally don't like the TeraFlex ones... The hard bushings make them a real pain to install. On the issue of clearance, the 33 Engineering web site says that "shims" are necessary to make everything clear... I've got some 1/4" plate in as spacers, but I think that I can get away with 1/8". The only problem that I haven't addressed is exhaust contact with the upper right front control arm bracket. Makes a heck of a noise. I'm going to try and "Massage" some of the exhaust hangars with a prybar, torch and big hammer. Wish me luck!

	This review is the subjective opinion of a JeepReviews user and not of JeepReviews.com.